About Tomatoes

Tomatoes are native to western South America and were cultivated by the Aztecs long before the Spanish invasion. Hernando Cortés is credited with introducing the first tomatoes--yellow ones--to Europe. They were initially treated with suspicion, but after a pair of Jesuit priests introduced the red tomatoes to Italy in the 18th century, they steadily became more popular.

There are numerous varieties of tomato, ranging from tiny cherry tomatoes to ridged beefsteak tomatoes that measure as much as 4 inches across. Great piles of plum tomatoes are a common sight at Mexican markets. Richly flavored, with fewer seeds than most other varieties, they are a popular choice for salads and salsas.

Tomatoes sold in Mexican markets will have ripened naturally, and will be full of flavor, so use ripe home-grown tomatoes or vine tomatoes when cooking Mexican dishes. Over-ripe tomatoes can be used for soups or purées, but avoid any tomatoes that show signs of mold. avoid buying tomatoes that are still green, but pale ones that have begun to redden can be ripened in a brown paper bag, especially if one adds a slice of apple. Try to either store fresh tomatoes at room temperature, or bring them to room temperature before use, as chilling dulls the flavor.

If a recipe requires that a tomato be seeded, jut cut it in half and squeeze gently, or scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. To peel, cut a cross in the bottom of the tomato, immerse it in boiling water for 3 minutes, then plunge into cold water. Drain well. The skins will have begun to peel back from the crosses an will be easy to remove. Chop or slice the tomatoes, as needed for individual recipes. If sliced tomatoes are called for, it is better to slice them across, rather than downward.

Mexicans use tomatoes in so many of their recipes that it would be impossible to list them all. They feature in both hot and cold soups, salsas, salads and meat and fish dishes. Chopped tomatoes are added to beans to make frijoles, are mixed with avocados in Guacamole and are used in Sangrita, a popular drink that is sipped alternately with tequila.

TOMATILLOS/TOMATE VERDE

Despite the name by which we know them--and the fact that they are sometimes referred to as Mexican green tomatoes--tomatillos are not members of the tomato family. Instead, they are related to cape gooseberries, those pretty little orange fruit surrounded by papery lanterns, which are so popular for garnishing. They have been grown in Mexico since Aztec times, when they were known as miltomatl. Mexicans seldom use the term "tomatillo," preferring to call these fruit by one of their many local names, which include fresadilla and tomate milpero.

Ranging in color from yellowish green to lime, tomatillos are firm, round fruit, about the size of a small tomato, but lighter in weight, as they are not juicy. Fresh ones usually have the brown papery husk attached to them at the stem end. The flavor resembles that of tart apples with a hint of lemon, and is enhanced by cooking, although a salsa cruda of raw tomatillos has a very pleasant, clean taste.

Fresh tomatillos are difficult to come by outside Mexico, but some specialty stores sell them, and they are also available by mail order in season. They can also be grown from seed, a most worthwhile enterprise for anyone who loves their clean, slightly acidic flavor. If you do locate a supply of fresh tomatillos, look for firm fruit with tight-fitting husks, and store them in a refrigerator for up to 1 week.

In the same way that canned carrots bear little resemblance to fresh ones, canned tomatillos are softer and not as tasty as fresh, but they are more readily available and preferable to missing out on this great flavor completely. When buying canned tomatillos, be sure to take account of the loss of weight when the liquid is drained off--it can be as much as a third of the total.

Tomatillos are used in table salsas and in the sauce (tomate verde salsa), which is poured over enchiladas before they are cooked. They can also be used instead of tomatoes in Guacamole, giving a piquant flavor to the sauce. To cook fresh tomatillos, remove the husks and dry-fry them in a heavy frying pan until the skins have begun to char and the flesh has softened. Alternatively, put them in a pan with water to cover, bring to a boil, then simmer them until they soften and begin to break down. If the dish in which they are used requires stock, use the cooking liquid.

SALSA CRUDA DE TOMATILLO

1) To make a rough textured salsa with tomatillos, process 1 pound fresh tomatillos in a food processor or chop them finely, then mix with one chopped small onion and one crushed garlic clove. Add two seeded and chopped jalapeño chiles and salt to taste.

2) Finely chop a small bunch of cilantro and add it to the tomatillo mixture.

3) Stir well, spoon into a clean bowl and serve immediately with freshly made corn tortilla chips.

Another delicious treat:

GREEN TOMATILLO SAUCE

This sauce with its distinctive green color and sharp taste, is a popular choice for pouring onto enchiladas. When the cream is added, it is perfect for poached fish or with chicken breasts. Fresh tomatillos, as earlier indicated, are difficult to obtain outside Mexico, but the sauce can be made with canned tomatillos. Instructions for both versions are given here:

SERVES FOUR AS A SAUCE FOR A MAIN COURSE

INGREDIENTS
11 ounces fresh tomatillos, plus 1/2 cup stock or water OR 11 ounces drained CANNED tomatillos, plus 1/4 cup stock or water
2 fresh serrano chiles
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Small bunch of cilantro
1/2 cup heavy cream (optionall)
Salt

1) If using FRESH tomatillos, remove the husks as suggested above and cut the tomatillos into quarters. Place them in a saucepan and add the stock of water. Cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, until the flesh is soft and transparent.

2) Remove the stems from the chiles, slit them and scrape out the seeds with a small knife. Chop the flesh roughly and place it in a food processor or blender with the garlic.

3) Add the tomatillos to the processor or blender with their cooking liquid and process for a few minutes until almost smooth. If using drained CANNED tomatillos, simply quarter and put in the blender or food processor with the smaller amount of stock or water and the chopped chiles and garlic. Process until almost smooth.

4) Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan and add the processed tomatillo purée. Reduce the heat and cook gently, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Be sure to keep stirring the sauce all the time, since it can easily stick and burn.

5) Chop the cilantro and add it to the sauce, with salt to taste. Cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally.

6) Stir in the cream, if using, and warm the sauce through. Do NOT let it boil after adding the cream. Serve immediately